Berbon. Burbon. Burrbon. BRBN.
More than any other whisky-producing nation, it is Canada that most frequently chooses to make whisky in the style of American bourbon. However, because bourbon is defined by law that stipulates that to be bourbon it must be made on US soil, Canadian releases often use a quirky manner of re-wording the word bourbon to indicate that they have made a whisky in the Bourbon-style without being in violation of this particular law.
As a result of Title 27 of the Code Of Federal US Regulations, the deviations of the original word ‘Bourbon’ shown above are among the many titles Canadian distillers have opted to assign to their ‘bourbon-esque’ releases.
In Taber Corn Berbon, Calgary, Alberta’s Bridgeland Distillery have released a pot-distilled spirit that that has been crafted using superior Alberta grain in conjunction of some of the traditional practices involved in bourbon making.
Unlike most Canadian whisky, Bridgeland has utilized a mashbill instead of blending a series of separate whiskies prior to finishing or prior to bottling.
This is very in line with traditional Bourbon production.
Within their mashbill, they have included 60% corn, which comes from the Molnar Farm in Taber, AB. Taber corn is touted as not only some of the best in the province, but is also regarded as among the best in the entire country.
Taberians take their corn very seriously
Using 60% corn is also very in line with Bourbon making, as corn must traditionally comprise 51% or more of a mashbill.
The remainder of the mashbill is rounded out with 32% malted barley and 8% wheat, with the final spirit being aged in new #4 charred American oak.
No rye was used however, which runs contrary to not only much of bourbon production, but also much of Canadian whisky making as well.
Also, it must be noted that Taber Corn Berbon does not meet the aging requirements to be called a whisky let alone a bourbon. Thus it has been labelled as “spirit” on the bottle, which though sadly can only be found in a 500ml size, it all comes packaged in one of the most attractive compact-sized bottles these eyes have ever seen.
SHELF APPEAL RATING (Note: does not count toward final score, out of 5):
APPEARANCE: Clear. Rich honey.
NOSE: Aromas of honey and milk chocolate present first, and are accompanied by lemon drop candies, ripe banana and pale straw.
PALATE: The palate brings forth lemon pith, vanilla and soft creamy caramel, which are hugged by toasted notes of barrel char and corn. This transitions into oats, rich sponge toffee and cocoa powder.
FINISH: Warming and pleasant. An almost slightly silty (but not in a bad way) mouthfeel of cocoa powder and oak gently fade, clocking in at medium length.
ABV: 45%
AGE: 1 Year
CASK(S): #4 Char American oak
ENJOY: Neat, with ice, or in a cocktail.
RATING:
Conclusions
The people of Taber, Alberta take their corn very seriously, and the Taber Corn Berbon seems to be a more than satisfactory result when it comes to the distilled reincarnation of their beloved grain.
Despite its youth, Taber Corn Berbon does not “taste young”, and boasts a surprising amount of mouth coating complexity for something that is technically under the age requirements for both bourbon and Canadian whisky.
There is a lot going on here for a whisky so young, and despite following many aspects of traditional bourbon production, there is almost a hint of a Scotch-like quality that is found on the palate, which is likely derived from the barley – sourced just “up the road” from Bridgeland Distillery.
Yes, this is a Canadian Whisky Review of something that technically is not even a whisky. Deal with it. It is simply too good to leave off the table because of this minor stipulation.
…And For Those So Inclined: A Recommended Cigar Pairing
Pair the Bridgeland Taber Corn Berbon spirit with a Joya de Nicaragua Antaño CT cigar.
Cloaked in a gorgeous Connecticut-seed wrapper grown in Ecuador, the 93-point-rated (by Cigar Aficionado Magazine) Antaño CT Robusto delivers a spicy sweetness, redolent of graham cracker, red pepper and and dark chocolate.
When enjoyed with Taber Corn Berbon, graham cracker notes mutate into something more salted pretzel-like. The liquid also brings out a great deal of black pepper in both cigar and spirit, while cinnamon becomes prominent in the Berbon which nicely compliments some overripe banana.
Both bright in character, the two form a lovely marriage of cigar and spirit.
– Kurt Bradley
Reviewed April 23, 2023
Kurt Bradley is the founder of The Gentleman’s Flavor, to which he is also a contributing editor, host and curator.
Kurt is a certified Whisky Ambassador accredited by The Scotch Whisky Association and has achieved Level 2 Award in Wine & Spirits Education Trust with distinction.
He lives in Toronto, Ontario.
