Highwood Distillers – who initially acquired this aged whisky from their purchase of Old Potter’s Distillery in Kelowna, BC – chose to name this 20 year old whisky expression ‘Ninety’ due to the fact that it is precisely 90 proof.

OK, this much makes sense, but…

Why they decided to label it as ‘Rye Whisky’ leaves me puzzled, given that it’s made from 100 percent corn distillate. I know, I know, I KNOW! – Canadian whisky is often casually referred to as “rye”.

Despite this, the decision to use the word rye is misleading nomenclature for what is ultimately a wonderfully rich and complex Canadian whisky.

SHELF APPEAL RATING (Note: does not count toward final score, out of 5): 

APPEARANCE: Clear. Dark honey. 

NOSE: The immediate presence of powdered sugar vanilla cookies and ćafe au lait speak to my sweet tooth. A faint pinch of lemon adds a (very) wee bit of brightness. The addition of cigar tobacco ash, hot butterscotch, sponge toffee and raw almonds round out a very rich, complex and sophisticated nose. 

PALATE: Rich and viscous. Dark coffee and burnt brown sugar excite the front palate first, and are followed by maple, molasses and the rancio of Crimini mushrooms. A slightly sour note that is redolent of dark grape skins manages to squeeze its way in.

FINISH: Medium in length and in sweetness. Coffee, tobacco ash and mushroom are quite evident. The finish falls short of wonderful, and comes off as a bit sharp and not quite as long as you’d expect – given the thick mouthcoating prelude that led up to it. A dissipating, drying finish that demands a little water after a few consecutive sips. 

ABV: 45% 

AGE: 20 years

CASK(S): N/A

ENJOY: Neat, with ice, or in a cocktail. 

RATING:

As a coffee enthusiast with a penchant for sweet baked goods, the Ninety 20 Year Old speaks to me, as its aroma and taste are heavily steeped within the essence of such things“

Conclusions

As a coffee enthusiast with a penchant for sweet baked goods, the Ninety 20 Year Old speaks to me, as its aroma and taste are heavily steeped within the essence of such things.

This is a very balanced and layered whisky with a finish that surprisingly falls short of what I’d expected given the rich mouthcoating nature of the liquid.

If the finish were to hang on and evolve a little bit longer (and wasn’t quite as drying), this would easily occupy a seat among the top 5 Canadian whiskies this whisky reviewer has ever had the pleasure of sipping upon. Maybe a future batch will accomplish this.

…And For Those So Inclined: A Recommended Cigar Pairing

Pair the Ninety 20 year Old Rye Whisky with the Maduro Leaf by Oscar cigar.

The rich, full-bodied chocolate, black pepper and honey character of this cigar perfectly lends itself to the robust coffee, maple and and brown sugar qualities of the whisky.

The rancio essence of this mature whisky finds a pleasing partner in the slightly earthy nature of this dark, oily-wrappered cigar. Just be sure to remove the rough, decorate exterior leaf first…

REVIEWED OCTOBER 2021

See more Canadian Whisky reviews

– Kurt Bradley

Kurt Bradley is the founder of The Gentleman’s Flavor, to which he is also a contributing editor, host and curator.

Kurt is a certified Whisky Ambassador accredited by The Scotch Whisky Association and has achieved Level 2 Award in Wine & Spirits Education Trust with distinction.

He lives in Toronto, Ontario.